Every home inspection follows a scope — but what actually goes into that scope? Whether you're a new inspector building your process or a veteran tightening your workflow, having a concrete list of what to check (and how to document it) separates thorough inspectors from ones who miss things.
This is the practitioner's version. Not the "what buyers should expect" fluff piece. This is what YOU need to check, why it matters, and how to document it efficiently so your report holds up.
Pro tip: The fastest inspectors aren't the ones who skip items — they're the ones who've systemized documentation. Voice-to-report tools like ReportWalk let you narrate findings as you walk through, cutting report writing time from 2 hours to 20 minutes.
Exterior (Items 1–10)
1. Foundation — Visible Cracks and Settlement
Walk the entire perimeter. You're looking for horizontal cracks (structural concern), stair-step cracks in masonry, and signs of settlement or heaving. Document crack width, length, and location. Hairline vertical cracks are common and usually cosmetic. Horizontal cracks wider than 1/4" get flagged immediately.
2. Grading and Drainage
Ground should slope away from the foundation at a minimum of 6 inches over 10 feet. Flat or negative grade means water pools against the foundation wall. Check downspout extensions — they should discharge at least 4 feet from the foundation.
3. Exterior Cladding
Inspect siding, brick, stucco, or stone veneer for damage, gaps, rot, and weathering. On wood siding, probe with an awl near ground level and around windows. Stucco: look for pattern cracking and staining (possible moisture intrusion).
4. Windows and Doors — Exterior
Check caulking, weatherstripping, and flashing. Operate at least one window per room (standards vary by state). Look for fogged double-pane glass (seal failure), rotted sills, and missing screens.
5. Driveway and Walkways
Note significant cracking, settling, heaving, and trip hazards. Concrete more than 3/4" offset at joints is a trip hazard. Document but don't catastrophize — concrete cracks.
6. Porches and Decks
Structural connections to the house, railing height (36" for decks under 30", 42" for higher), spindle spacing (less than 4"), ledger board attachment, and wood condition. Decks are one of the top structural failure risks at residential properties.
7. Garage (Exterior)
Overhead door operation (manual and automatic), auto-reverse safety test (place a 2x4 under the door — it must reverse), fire separation wall integrity, and vehicle door opener safety.
8. Landscaping and Trees
Vegetation contacting the house, roots near foundation, and dead trees within falling distance of the structure. You're not an arborist, but obvious hazards get documented.
9. Exterior Electrical
Service entrance cable condition, weatherhead, meter base, and exterior outlets (should be GFCI-protected). Check for open junction boxes and amateur wiring to outbuildings.
10. Hose Bibs and Exterior Plumbing
Operate each hose bib. Check for anti-siphon devices (code in most jurisdictions). Note any visible supply or drain lines.
Roof (Items 11–16)
11. Roof Covering Material
Assess remaining life of shingles, tiles, or metal panels. On asphalt shingles: check for curling, granule loss, cracking, and moss growth. Document approximate age if visible.
12. Flashing
Around chimneys, vent pipes, valleys, wall intersections, and skylights. Lifted, rusted, or missing flashing is the #1 source of roof leaks. Get close enough to actually see the condition.
13. Gutters and Downspouts
Proper attachment, slope toward downspouts, overflow evidence, and discharge location. Clogged gutters cause more foundation problems than most homeowners realize.
14. Roof Penetrations
Vent boots, plumbing vents, HVAC vents, and exhaust fans. Cracked rubber boots on plumbing vents are extremely common on roofs over 10 years old.
15. Soffit and Fascia
Wood rot, paint peeling, and pest damage. Check that soffit vents aren't blocked by insulation (visible from attic side).
16. Chimney
Mortar condition, crown/cap, flue liner visible condition, and spark arrestor. Step cracks on chimneys indicate settling independent of the house.
Attic (Items 17–20)
17. Insulation
Type, depth, and coverage. R-38 minimum for most climate zones. Note bare spots, compressed insulation, and insulation covering recessed lights (fire hazard unless IC-rated).
18. Ventilation
Adequate intake (soffit vents) and exhaust (ridge vent, gable vents, or roof vents). Poor ventilation shortens roof life and promotes moisture problems.
19. Structural Framing
Rafters, trusses, and sheathing condition. Look for cracked or modified trusses (huge red flag — homeowners love cutting trusses for storage). Check for sagging ridgelines.
20. Signs of Moisture
Staining on sheathing, mold growth, daylight visible through roof boards, and active leaks. The attic tells you the roof's real story.
Interior — Structure (Items 21–26)
21. Foundation (Interior)
Basement or crawl space: wall condition, floor cracks, water staining, efflorescence, and sump pump operation. In crawl spaces: vapor barrier condition, standing water, and pest damage.
22. Floor Structure
Bounce test, visible joists (if accessible), notching and boring compliance, and support posts. Excessive bounce indicates undersized joists or missing supports.
23. Walls and Ceilings
Cracks, staining, bulging, and evidence of previous repairs. Diagonal cracks at door and window corners suggest settlement. Water stains on ceilings: always trace the source.
24. Doors — Interior
Operation, latching, and frame condition. Doors that stick or won't latch can indicate foundation movement or framing settlement.
25. Windows — Interior
Operation from inside, locks, condensation between panes, and condition. Test at least one window per room.
26. Stairs and Railings
Riser height consistency (max variation 3/8"), railing security (must support 200 lbs lateral force), and tread depth. Stairs are a leading cause of home injuries.
Electrical (Items 27–32)
27. Main Panel
Breaker condition, proper labeling, double-tapped breakers, aluminum wiring, Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (known hazards), and appropriate sizing for the home.
28. Branch Wiring
Wire type (copper vs aluminum), condition where visible, and proper connections. Knob-and-tube and cloth-wrapped wiring get documented.
29. GFCI Protection
Test every GFCI outlet. Required in bathrooms, kitchens (within 6 feet of sink), garages, exteriors, unfinished basements, and laundry areas. Many older homes lack adequate GFCI protection.
30. AFCI Protection
Required in bedrooms (since 2002 code) and most living spaces (since 2014 code). Test with the built-in test button.
31. Outlets and Switches
Test a representative number for proper wiring (hot, neutral, ground). Three-light testers catch reversed polarity and open grounds. Note ungrounded outlets.
32. Smoke and CO Detectors
Presence, location, and operation. Requirements vary by state — know your local code. Most states require smoke detectors in every bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level.
Plumbing (Items 33–38)
33. Water Supply
Main shutoff location and operation, supply line material (copper, PEX, CPVC, galvanized, polybutylene), and visible condition. Polybutylene (gray plastic) is a known defect.
34. Water Heater
Age, type, capacity, temperature setting, TPR valve and discharge pipe, seismic strapping (where required), and combustion air (gas units). Average life: 10–12 years for tank units.
35. Fixtures and Faucets
Operate every fixture. Check for leaks under sinks, proper drainage, and hot water at all faucets. Slow drains get documented.
36. Drain System
Visible drain lines: material, condition, proper slope, and connections. ABS, PVC, cast iron, and galvanized are common. Galvanized drains in pre-1970 homes are often corroded internally.
37. Toilets
Flush operation, base stability (rock test), tank condition, and shutoff valve. A rocking toilet means a failed wax ring — potential subfloor water damage.
38. Water Pressure
Test with a pressure gauge at a hose bib. Normal range: 40–80 psi. Above 80 psi requires a pressure reducing valve. Below 40 psi indicates supply issues.
HVAC (Items 39–43)
39. Heating System
Type, fuel source, age, operation, and visible condition. Run the system for at least one full cycle. Check heat exchangers for cracks (furnaces), flame color (should be blue), and unusual odors.
40. Cooling System
Operation, refrigerant line condition (insulation on suction line), condensate drain, and temperature differential (14–22°F between supply and return). Note the age — average AC life is 15–20 years.
41. Ductwork
Visible condition, connections, insulation, and damper operation. Disconnected or crushed ducts in crawl spaces and attics are extremely common.
42. Thermostat
Operation and programming. Run heating AND cooling if seasonal conditions allow. Smart thermostats: verify communication with system.
43. Ventilation — Bathrooms and Kitchen
Exhaust fans: operation and proper termination (must vent to exterior, not into attic). Kitchen range hood: operation and venting. Bathroom fans venting into attics cause major moisture problems.
Bonus Items (44–47)
44. Fireplace and Chimney (Interior)
Damper operation, firebox condition, hearth clearances, and gas log operation. Open the damper and look up — you should see daylight or a properly sized flue.
45. Garage — Interior
Fire separation (5/8" Type X drywall on shared walls, self-closing door to house), floor condition, and storage of flammable materials near ignition sources.
46. Laundry Area
Dryer vent material (should be rigid metal, not foil flex), connections, and 240V outlet condition. Dryer vent fires are a leading cause of house fires.
47. General Safety
Handrails, guardrails, trip hazards, carbon monoxide risks, and egress requirements. Every bedroom needs at least one egress window (5.7 sq ft minimum opening).
Documentation: The Part That Separates Good Inspectors from Great Ones
Finding the issues is half the job. Documenting them clearly, consistently, and quickly is the other half — and it's where most inspectors lose time.
The old way: scribble notes in the field, take photos, then spend 2 hours at your desk assembling the report. Multiply that by 2–3 inspections a day and you're spending your evenings writing reports instead of growing your business.
The voice-first approach: Walk through the property, narrate what you see as you see it. "Kitchen — GFCI outlet next to sink, tested, tripped properly. Under-sink plumbing: PVC drain, no active leaks, disposal operational." Your voice becomes your report.
Tools like ReportWalk are built specifically for this — speak your findings, and the report writes itself. No typing, no desk time, no backlog.
The 47 items on this list don't change. But how fast you document them determines whether you're doing 2 inspections a day or 4.
Looking for a faster way to document your inspections? ReportWalk turns your voice into professional inspection reports — so you can spend more time inspecting and less time typing.
