Home Inspection Checklist for Buyers: What Your Inspector Actually Checks

You're buying a house. Your agent tells you to get a home inspection. You schedule one, show up, and watch someone walk around with a flashlight and a clipboard for three hours. But what are they actually checking?

As inspectors, we get this question constantly. Buyers want to know what's on the home inspection checklist for buyers — not the glossy marketing version, but the real list of things we're evaluating when we walk through your potential new home.

This is that list. Everything your inspector checks, why it matters, and what you should pay attention to in the report afterward.

Exterior and Site

We start outside. Always. The exterior tells us more about a home's condition than most buyers realize.

Grading and Drainage

The ground around the foundation should slope away from the house. We're looking for at least six inches of fall over the first ten feet. When the grading is flat or slopes toward the foundation, water pools against the walls. That means moisture in the basement or crawl space, and eventually, structural damage.

We also check:

• Downspout discharge — are they dumping water right at the foundation or directing it away?
• Window wells — are they draining properly or filling with water?
• Standing water evidence — staining on the foundation, erosion patterns, moisture-loving vegetation growing tight against the walls

Foundation Visible from Outside

We walk the entire perimeter looking at exposed foundation walls. Cracks get documented — not all cracks are structural, but we note their pattern, width, and direction.

• Vertical cracks — usually settlement, common, often cosmetic
• Horizontal cracks — more concerning, can indicate lateral pressure from soil
• Stair-step cracks in block foundations — settlement or movement

Exterior Cladding

Whether it's vinyl siding, brick, stucco, or wood — we're checking for:

• Physical damage (cracks, holes, missing pieces)
• Proper clearance from grade (siding should be at least 6 inches above soil)
• Flashing at transitions (where the siding meets windows, doors, rooflines)
• Signs of moisture intrusion (bubbling paint, staining, soft spots)

Roof

The roof is the first line of defense against water. We take it seriously.

Roof Covering

If it's safe to walk, we walk it. If not, we use ladders, drones, or binoculars. We're checking:

• Shingle condition — curling, cracking, granule loss, missing shingles
• Estimated age — most asphalt shingles last 20-25 years. We estimate remaining life.
• Number of layers — most codes allow two layers maximum. Three layers means the next repair is a full tear-off, which costs significantly more.
• Flashing — around chimneys, plumbing vents, roof-to-wall transitions. This is where most roof leaks start.
• Valleys — where two roof planes meet. Improper valley flashing or worn shingles here cause leaks.

Gutters and Downspouts

• Are they present and in good condition?
• Are they sloping toward downspouts?
• Are downspouts directing water away from the foundation?
• Signs of overflow (staining on fascia, erosion below)

Penetrations

Every hole in the roof is a potential leak. We check sealing around:

• Plumbing vent boots
• Chimney flashing
• Bathroom/kitchen exhaust vents
• Satellite dish mounts
• Skylights

Attic

The attic tells us what's happening between the roof and the living space. Many inspectors consider this the most informative space in the house.

Insulation

• Type — fiberglass batts, blown-in cellulose, spray foam
• Depth — we measure it. Current recommendations are R-38 to R-60 depending on climate zone, which translates to roughly 10-15 inches of fiberglass
• Distribution — is it even or are there bare spots? Has it been moved and not replaced?

Ventilation

The attic needs to breathe. We check for:

• Soffit vents (intake)
• Ridge vent, gable vents, or roof vents (exhaust)
• Balanced airflow — intake and exhaust should be roughly equal
• Signs of inadequate ventilation: condensation on sheathing, mold, frost in winter, premature shingle aging

Evidence of Leaks

Staining on the underside of the roof sheathing. Daylight visible through the roof. Water damage on framing. Even old, repaired leaks get noted — they tell us about the roof's history.

Structure

This is the big one. The bones of the house.

Foundation from Inside

Whether we're in a basement or crawl space, we're looking at:

• Cracks — same evaluation as outside, but we can see them closer and check both sides
• Bowing walls — signs of lateral soil pressure
• Water intrusion — staining, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), active moisture
• Previous repairs — carbon fiber straps, wall anchors, epoxy injection. These aren't necessarily bad — they tell us someone addressed a problem

Floor Framing

• Joist condition — checking for rot, insect damage, notches and holes that weaken them
• Bearing points — are beams and posts properly supported?
• Sagging or bouncing floors — can indicate undersized joists or removed support walls
• Modifications — has anyone cut through joists for plumbing or HVAC? Improperly modified framing is one of the most common findings in older homes

Electrical System

We covered this in detail in our electrical inspection checklist, but here's what matters for buyers.

Main Panel

• Service size — 100, 150, or 200 amps. 200 is current standard.
• Panel brand — Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels have known safety issues
• Double-tapped breakers — two wires on one breaker (usually not allowed)
• Proper labeling — can you tell what each breaker controls?

Throughout the House

• GFCI protection — required in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exterior, unfinished basements. We test every one.
• AFCI protection — required in bedrooms and living spaces in newer homes
• Outlet testing — we test a representative number of outlets for proper wiring
• Open junction boxes — exposed wire connections are a fire hazard
• Aluminum wiring — homes built in the late 1960s-early 1970s may have it. Not dangerous by itself but requires proper connections

Plumbing

Water Supply

• Material — copper, PEX, galvanized, polybutylene. Galvanized and polybutylene have known issues.
• Water pressure — we test it with a gauge. Normal is 40-80 PSI.
• Functional flow — we run multiple fixtures simultaneously to check for pressure drops
• Visible leaks — under sinks, at connections, water heater

Drain System

• Material — PVC, ABS, cast iron, galvanized. Cast iron in older homes can be internally corroded.
• Drainage speed — we fill sinks and tubs and watch them drain
• Visible leaks — we run water and check drain lines in basements/crawl spaces

Water Heater

• Age — most tank water heaters last 8-12 years. We decode the serial number to determine age.
• Temperature/pressure relief valve — must be present and properly piped
• Combustion air — gas water heaters need adequate ventilation
• Condition — rust, corrosion, signs of past leaks

For a deeper dive on water-related inspections, see our well inspection guide.

HVAC

Heating System

• Type and fuel — gas furnace, heat pump, boiler, electric
• Age — furnaces typically last 15-20 years, boilers longer
• Operation — we run it and check for proper heating
• Heat exchanger — we look for visible cracks (a cracked heat exchanger can leak carbon monoxide)
• Flue and venting — proper draft, no disconnections, correct materials

Cooling System

• Age — AC units typically last 12-15 years
• Operation — we run it (weather permitting — we can't run AC when it's below 60°F)
• Temperature differential — we measure supply and return air. Should be 15-20°F difference.
• Refrigerant lines — insulation on the suction line, no visible damage

Ductwork

• Connections — disconnected ducts are surprisingly common, especially in attics and crawl spaces
• Insulation — ducts in unconditioned spaces should be insulated
• Condition — crushed, sagging, or deteriorated ducts reduce efficiency

Check our HVAC inspection checklist for the complete breakdown.

Interior

Walls, Ceilings, Floors

We're not interior designers. We're looking for:

• Cracks — especially diagonal cracks from door and window corners (can indicate settlement)
• Water stains — on ceilings below bathrooms, below windows, along exterior walls
• Soft spots in floors — can indicate water damage or subfloor deterioration
• Doors and windows operating properly — sticking doors can indicate structural movement

Windows

• Operation — do they open, close, and lock?
• Seal failure — fogged double-pane windows (moisture between the panes)
• Type — single-pane windows are energy inefficient but not a defect

Bathrooms

• Caulking and grout — deteriorated caulk around tubs and showers allows water behind walls
• Toilet stability — we rock every toilet. A loose toilet damages the wax seal and can leak into the floor
• Ventilation — exhaust fans should vent to the exterior, not into the attic
• Functional flow — we flush toilets and run sinks simultaneously

Kitchen

• Appliance operation — we run built-in appliances (dishwasher, disposal, range, oven, microwave, exhaust fan)
• GFCI protection — required for countertop outlets
• Plumbing connections — under-sink check for leaks

Garage

• Fire separation — the wall between the garage and living space should be fire-rated (typically 1/2" or 5/8" drywall). Missing or damaged drywall is a safety concern.
• Auto-reverse on garage doors — we test both the photo-eye sensors and the mechanical auto-reverse
• Fire door — the door between garage and living space should be fire-rated and self-closing
• GFCI outlets — required in garages

What's NOT on the Checklist

Buyers are sometimes surprised by what we don't check:

• Cosmetic issues — paint, wallpaper, scratches. Not our job.
• Behind walls — we can't see through drywall. We report what's visible and accessible.
• Sewer line condition — that requires a separate sewer scope inspection
• Mold testing — we note visible suspected mold but don't test. That's a specialist.
• Radon — separate test, separate equipment. Worth doing. Check our radon inspection guide for details.
• Code compliance — we're not code inspectors. We note safety concerns and significant defects, but we don't verify everything meets current code.
• Pest/termite inspection — many states require a separate termite inspection for real estate transactions

How to Use Your Inspection Report

The report isn't a to-do list or a negotiation weapon. It's information. Here's how to think about it:

1. Safety items come first — anything that's a safety hazard should be addressed regardless of negotiation
2. Big-ticket systems — roof, HVAC, electrical panel, plumbing. Know their age and condition. Budget for future replacements.
3. Maintenance items — most findings are maintenance. Caulk that needs replacing, a missing downspout extension, a filter that needs changing. These are homeowner responsibilities.
4. Ask questions — your inspector should be willing to explain anything in the report. If something doesn't make sense, ask.

The Report Itself

Modern inspection reports are detailed — often 30-50 pages with photos. As inspectors, documenting all of this used to mean hours of typing after every inspection. Now many of us use voice-based tools like ReportWalk to dictate findings on-site, which means your report is more detailed because we're capturing observations in real time instead of trying to remember everything back at the office.

The result for you as a buyer: a more thorough, more accurate report delivered faster.

Bottom Line

A home inspection checklist for buyers isn't about finding reasons to kill a deal. It's about understanding what you're buying. Every house has issues — even new construction. The inspection tells you which issues are cosmetic, which need maintenance, which need repair, and which are safety concerns.

The best thing you can do as a buyer? Show up for the inspection, follow the inspector around, and ask questions. Three hours of your time will teach you more about that house than anything else in the buying process.